Tag: surf

Taking the baja down the Baja: Day Two

Leigh, Surfing, Travel

Note: This is day two of our adventures driving a ’68 bug from Sacramento, California to Sayulita, Mexico.  If you missed day one, you can read that recap here. 

We woke up to find a thief had been at the bug and gone again, and the only thing he or she wanted was the “travelsurfyoga.com” tape on our window.  Sometimes even a cheap marketing ploy gets recognized for its value.  With a shake of our heads we piled back into the bug and set our sights on Sunset Cliffs, the birthplace of the fish surfboard.

Sunset Cliffs is beautiful.  Pictures don’t do it justice, but I’ll give it my best attempt.  Something about the clear blue water juxtaposed with the rocks and sky… I couldn’t stop saying how lovely it all was.

 

As we drove through town, we spotted two gentlemen and a golden retriever lounging outside a surf shop.  The guys smiled at our rig, and we swung into a parking spot.  Mark and his friend shook our hands and we checked out their boards for sale.  They told us about the nearby surf spot, not working that day unfortunately, and we chatted about a couple of places we planned to see on our way down the coast.  Mark told us about Richard, a local surfer and VW enthusiast, who was selling coffee out of a bus down by the water.  “It’s a blue VW bus, and he’s a surfer guy with long blonde hair.  Stop by and see him,” they encouraged us several times.  We promised we would and took our leave.

Sure enough, we stumbled upon Richard and his buses down by the shore.  He gave us a nod and his permission to park the bug next to his green VW bus for sale.  (It’s priced at 30k, in case you have the interest and a little pocket change.)  We ordered coffees and stretched our legs, and after a little chat decided to get back on the road.

Except, the bug wasn’t ready to move.  We pressed the button, and it wouldn’t start.  Hmmm.  Tried again.  Richard had ideas and so did his buddy, and we all got out to talk them through.  The buddy grabbed a can of starting fluid and gave it a go.  Still nothing.  After a little more tinkering, we discovered a loose wire in the ignition system.  Richard’s friend grabbed a crimping tool and viola!  It worked.  While it was running, we threw out one more question.  The first day the bug stayed in gear just fine, but on day two it was wanting to jump out of fourth, especially when pulling uphill.  Richard said it sounded like we needed to check the transmission fluid, and we drove off with that mission in mind, and directions to the nearest Auto Zone.

We pulled into a side lot to add the fluid, check the oil and tighten whatever we could access and turn, even just a smidge. When we went to fill the bug with transmission fluid, the fill port was only hand tight, so the fluid suggestion turned out to be a good one.  It didn’t cure the popping out of gear part, but the bug drank a bottle of the stuff and we certainly wouldn’t want to run it dry.

 

Back on the road, we decided we should adjust our original plan, and cross the border the next morning.  Our mechanic stop was well worth it, but it did cost us some daylight, and night time is not the best time to get into Mexico and get paperwork sorted.  We pinpointed the best place to stay just this side of the border, in a town called Chula Vista.  The El Primo Hotel had a confident name and a friendly manager/owner, who professed to be 79 years old “plus tax”.

I didn’t catch his name, but he was willing to share about his journey from the Philippines to the states when he was just 19 years old.  He joined the navy right away, and volunteered for submarine duty.  He told us he could see the sides of the hallways down below, begin to curve under the pressure at 3200 feet.  We could have swapped stories with him all evening, but we were hungry and not the only guests, so we said good night and walked down the street to an Italian restaurant, with 200 more miles under our belts.

On Day Three we required the services of Smack it with a Hammer Mechanics, and found out beach hotels that appear abandoned sometimes offer the best accommodations.  Stay tuned…

Taking the baja down the Baja

Leigh, Surfing, Travel, Yoga

To really tell this story, I must first tell you how the Green Meanie came to be.  Edgar and I had been to Sayulita quite a few times, and each time paid a pretty steep amount to rent a car.  You pay for the rental, but also for the Mexican insurance (check out VdM), since your insurance in the states is not accepted there.  This addition doubles the cost of the rental.  We talked about how it would be nice to have an older car there just to run around to restaurants, surf breaks and the airport… maybe something like a VW bug.

The idea sounded good, and it quickly moved from mere conversation to an internet search, and to a specific seller who appeared to have just the thing posted on Craig’s List.  It was green, mean, a little beat up and a lot loud.  It was a baja bug.  Our new friend had been working on it with his grandfather, and had even taken a trip to Mexico in it already.  It fit our needs and the price was right, so we made the deal.  The seller even towed it to my house, since my stick shift driving now is weak at best, and at that time, was non-existent.

I kept the bug at my place for a while, and taught myself to drive it on weekends.  I practiced taking it to the gas station, waving folks around me as I stalled at lights.  Edgar came to visit and we added gas and water cans, a high-lift jack, shovel, pick ax and all-terrain tires.  We ordered a few spare parts, and then a couple more, and stocked up on zip ties and black tape.  A stall mat made for a handy back seat cover, and I got my first drilling experience putting in some second-hand head rests.  We threw in some floor mats, ammo boxes for the glove compartments, and made sure we had a gallon of oil at the ready.

The Green Meanie was ready to go home.

Day One:

We left Sacramento with a back seat filled with tools and backpacks, and a roof rack topped off with surf boards.   I thought people might give us a second glance, but we were surprised to see how much people were really digging it.  We saw lots of thumbs up and plenty of cell phones out for photos as we rumbled down the highway.

Our first stop was Santa Cruz and the Ripcurl store.  Edgar wanted to pick up a wet suit for the cold pacific water, and I found a shorty that would be perfect a little farther south.  Our rig was drawing attention in the parking lot, so we figured we’d let people know where they could read more about our travels, and borrowed a sharpie from the shop.  We wrote our web address on masking tape and slapped it to the back windows on both sides.   Cheap, but effective.   (We actually have TSY stickers, but I neglected to bring them along, so the tape had to do.)

Marketing at its finest

We stopped every couple of hours for gas and to check the oil.  The gas gauge was sort of a guide, but not an exact one.  If it got to half, that was more like empty.  Did I mention we had a big gas can on the side?  We were prepared for long stretches without a gas station, and for pretty much daily guesses at how much we had left in the tank.   For a trip like this, the proper mindset is key.   Even though we had a mechanic go through it before we hit the road, (thanks FIDS of West Sac!) we understood there might be challenges, and we were ready to roll with them.

The first evening was a chilly one, and we threw on a few extra layers as we cruised into Ventura.  We knocked out about 400 miles for our first day, and we were pretty pleased.  We had hoped to find a restaurant open, but Saturday night was surprisingly sleepy, and we ended up ordering pizza in.

Day two began with a shocking theft, and moved on to a strange encounter with a surfer who sold coffee out of a VW bus.  Stay tuned….

The AK 47 Philosophy

Edgar, Surfing, Travel

The AK 47 is a gas-operated assault rifle developed in the late 1940s.  It was the brain child of
Mikhail Kalashnikov.  He was a self-taught tinkerer, and at 26 he built this masterpiece.

The AK 47 was designed as a weapon of defense, but it has played a major role, on varying sides, in almost every military conflict since its invention.

I know a lot of shooters who turn their nose up at the AK 47.  Usually for the same reasons: it isn’t accurate; it is clunky; it has quality issues.  For AK owners, those are difficult arguments to dispel.  Two things can not be taken from this rifle. It is cheap (in bulk or individually). It is reliable (before and after abuse).  The soldier has to have reliability, and the provider has to be able to afford them.  For these two reasons, the AK 47 works.  Things that work are wonderful, and function can be more important than form. This is the first part of the two-part AK 47 philosophy.

When I look at the gear I have (and keep), it has one thing in common; above all else it is functional. If it does not work, it does not stay. Why would it?

I don’t want to hang out on the beach w/a sexy hot rod short board while some mushy surf is firing off.  I wanna paddle out and ride that slop! I want a board that will work for me, even if it is not as cool to carry around.

It is the same way w/my motorcycle (KLR 650), truck (93 Toyota Landcruiser), snowboard (beautiful 165cm kona wood Element), etc.  Some of my gear looks cool; some of it looks mean; and some of it just looks used, and that is the point.  This is the second piece of the AK 47 philosophy.  Tis better to participate than to contemplate.

This does not advocate hopping in w/out thought. It is very important (and fun) to plan and scheme and consider consequence, but life is dynamic, and waiting on perfection can lead to no execution.  No execution is not consistent w/an adventurer’s heart.

In the age of the consumer, it is easy to loose focus. Ads and articles swirl around telling us what we need to spend our money on, so they can increase their profit margin.  I hate to sound jaded, but some of these manufactures may not care about us as individuals.  So we need to look after ourselves and our own philosophies.

My suggestion, look at your budget, understand your needs, and get products that work.
Keep your end game in mind.  It is very easy to get stalled out on the shopping section, but don’t.

Get your gear, and go do!
See you on the battlefield.

Edgar~

Sayulita

Informational, Leigh, Surfing, Travel, Yoga

Sayulita, Mexico.

When Edgar first invited me there, I had never heard of it, and now it feels like I hear it mentioned everywhere! This eclectic, artsy little surf town is getting some travel buzz, and for good reason. It’s a great mix of locals and visitors, with a healthy dose of misfits thrown into the scene. It’s happy. It’s safe. It’s on the beach. It’s beautiful. It’s Sayulita.

Before you go:

In addition to researching where you want to stay, and what you want to do, you’ll want to check the current exchange rate and get some pesos in your pocket. Most places in Sayulita will take US currency, but they won’t give you the best rate. We’ve found the best deal is to order some pesos from your home bank before you go. Some bigger banks will have them on hand, but others will take a few days to get them for you. It’s worth it, and will save you money when you just spend like a local.

Getting there:

Flights to Puerto Vallarta are easy to find, and as long as you have some advance notice, pretty reasonable. We recommend giving yourself a couple of months to search, so you can see patterns of when prices fluctuate. Holidays are tough, as the airline industry is well aware that you’d love to go someplace warm and filled with sea air, but you can still find a deal if you get creative. Once you have your dates in mind, do some sliding around of days/times and see what works best. If you end up with a layover in Mexico City, make sure you plan for enough time to go through customs and find your way around the airport. Their second terminal is not well-marked and is up a level and a tram ride over from the main terminal. (I once had to “tip” an employee a $20 just to find the tram station, so learn from my mistakes and look for the escalator going up.)

Arrival:

The airport in PV is pretty easy. Once you flow out of customs (press the button and cross your fingers for no searches!) you’ll be ushered right into the main lobby. Don’t have a ride? No worries. Cab drivers are everywhere. If you have something arranged in advance, ignore all the people waving you over. They’ll ask where you’re going or guess where you’re going and act like they know you. A few “no gracias” waves will do the trick. Step outside and you’ll see two lanes of traffic and lots of pick ups and drop off, just like any airport, with maybe an extra dose of chaos. If your ride is arranged, they’ll be holding a sign with your name on it. If you don’t have one arranged, just tell any cabbie where you’re going. Trips to Sayulita can run you anywhere from 1000-2000 pesos, roughly $50-$100 USD. You’re expected to negotiate, so take whatever they quote you and whittle it down. If you say no to their price, they’ll probably ask you what you want to pay, so have that number in mind.

Getting around town:

Sayulita is walking city. Most of the hotels and B&Bs are right in the heart of the city, or a short walk outside of it. The beach is walkable from just about anywhere in town, so unless you like to pack a bunch of stuff with you, you’ll be fine to head over on foot. Some visitors can be seen cruising around on golf carts, since they’re easy to stash on side streets, but we’ve found these to be a bit pricey and prefer the exercise.

Restaurants and shopping:

There are good deals to be found on food and souvenirs, but like most places you have to be ready to look at little off the path. The shops right by the beach offer lots of swimsuits and clothing, but at tourist prices. Some of the best deals on blankets, hammocks, jewelry and so forth can be found right on the beach. Sellers walk the beach all day offering all sorts of wares, and they’re all ready to ask you what price you want to pay.

Some of the best food can be found right on the street, at the taco stands! The churros (fried dough) are also delicious, and the perfect post-dinner snack for your walk back to your hotel. If you’re more in the mood for a sit-down meal, there are plenty of great restaurants serving delicious seafood, pizzas, salads and of course, traditional Mexican cuisine. Prices are reasonable, and the service is almost always great.

After dinner, take a lap around the square. There are musicians, skateboarders, fire twirlers and all sorts of performers ready to wow the crowds. The vibe of the city between 9p-11p is fun and vibrant, and there are still tons of families with young ones milling about. I can’t speak to the late night crowd, but at least until 11 or so the majority of the city is just having an innocent good time.

Surfing:

If you go to Sayulita, you can rent a board for a day for about $15 USD. There’s a surf break right there on the main beach, and there are plenty of beginners paddling out on their foam boards for the thrill of their first white water rides, and more experienced surfers showing off their skills a little farther out. You can rent boards right on the beach, or at any of the surf shops in town.
If you’re an avid surfer and want more variety, there are a number of nearby breaks that the locals will help you get to, but keep in mind the best spots you may need to find yourself. Not every surf instructor wants to find tourists on his break on his only day off. But in all, folks are very friendly and if you’re looking for a wave someone will tell you what’s working that day.

Yoga:

Sayulita is a great place to practice your beach flow. I’ve enjoyed several morning sessions flowing to the sound of the waves. Because folks tend to have dinner late and then stay out late, the beach is quiet in the mornings. Surfers and yogis who want a little quiet time would do well to hit the beach before 8:00am. If you prefer to flow with a group, there are also several yoga studios on the side streets of town, and they’ll have morning and evening classes. It’s also a great place for yoga retreats, so keep an eye out for those ads and you can return to flow for an entire weekend. The instructors I’ve had have all spoken English and usually conduct their classes in a mix of both English and Spanish. For single classes, expect to pay a drop in rate of about $10 USD.

Other Activities:

Of course there other activities to explore, if you are not surf/yoga inclined. Sayulita offers horseback riding, zip lining, fishing, ATV tours and much more. You can make reservations in advance, or talk to your hotel clerk and other people in town to see what’s available. People are very friendly and eager to help you enjoy their city.

Safety:

I’ve always felt safe in Sayulita. But of course, whenever you travel you don’t want to leave common sense behind. Stay in groups when you can, but if you explore alone, stick to the main drag. Evenings are joyful, but as the night goes on, some folks transition from eating to drinking, and it can get a little loud. This is usually when we call it a night! If you do like to stay out late and enjoy adult beverages, just keep an eye on your drink and your friends. Look out for each other just like you would in your home city, and you’ll be just fine.

The fact that Sayulita is gaining in popularity is no accident. It’s a fun town that combines a beautiful beach with a vibrant cultural experience, while its reasonable prices and English-speaking residents make it accessible to all kinds of travelers. It offers adventure for the daring, and relaxation for the weary. For first-timers, it’s the perfect weekend getaway. After that, it will never be long enough.