The exploration of a wave is an odd concept, particularly for someone who has not considered it. The landscape of every wave is different and fleeting, but it is a landscape full of folds and slopes and raw power. Each wave carries its own colors and smells and tastes and sounds unique to its moment in time. In it, is the life and death of a place that is wondrous and powerful.
To explore this land takes patience, focus, and understanding. It takes dedication and sacrifice to achieve the level of skill required to inspect God’s fleeting artistry. You must understand where to draw speed, where to take cover, and how to exit. There are many vehicles to explore waves, and all provide a different journey and perspective, often as unique as the wave itself.
As short as a breaking waves’ life is, throughout that span, it constantly changes. It is a fleeting planet, a falling star, whose exploration takes the ultimate pioneer.
Some say it has all been done, that there is nothing left to explore, those folks don’t surf….
Edgar~
