Sayulita, Mexico.
When Edgar first invited me there, I had never heard of it, and now it feels like I hear it mentioned everywhere! This eclectic, artsy little surf town is getting some travel buzz, and for good reason. It’s a great mix of locals and visitors, with a healthy dose of misfits thrown into the scene. It’s happy. It’s safe. It’s on the beach. It’s beautiful. It’s Sayulita.
Before you go:
In addition to researching where you want to stay, and what you want to do, you’ll want to check the current exchange rate and get some pesos in your pocket. Most places in Sayulita will take US currency, but they won’t give you the best rate. We’ve found the best deal is to order some pesos from your home bank before you go. Some bigger banks will have them on hand, but others will take a few days to get them for you. It’s worth it, and will save you money when you just spend like a local.
Getting there:
Flights to Puerto Vallarta are easy to find, and as long as you have some advance notice, pretty reasonable. We recommend giving yourself a couple of months to search, so you can see patterns of when prices fluctuate. Holidays are tough, as the airline industry is well aware that you’d love to go someplace warm and filled with sea air, but you can still find a deal if you get creative. Once you have your dates in mind, do some sliding around of days/times and see what works best. If you end up with a layover in Mexico City, make sure you plan for enough time to go through customs and find your way around the airport. Their second terminal is not well-marked and is up a level and a tram ride over from the main terminal. (I once had to “tip” an employee a $20 just to find the tram station, so learn from my mistakes and look for the escalator going up.)
Arrival:
The airport in PV is pretty easy. Once you flow out of customs (press the button and cross your fingers for no searches!) you’ll be ushered right into the main lobby. Don’t have a ride? No worries. Cab drivers are everywhere. If you have something arranged in advance, ignore all the people waving you over. They’ll ask where you’re going or guess where you’re going and act like they know you. A few “no gracias” waves will do the trick. Step outside and you’ll see two lanes of traffic and lots of pick ups and drop off, just like any airport, with maybe an extra dose of chaos. If your ride is arranged, they’ll be holding a sign with your name on it. If you don’t have one arranged, just tell any cabbie where you’re going. Trips to Sayulita can run you anywhere from 1000-2000 pesos, roughly $50-$100 USD. You’re expected to negotiate, so take whatever they quote you and whittle it down. If you say no to their price, they’ll probably ask you what you want to pay, so have that number in mind.
Getting around town:
Sayulita is walking city. Most of the hotels and B&Bs are right in the heart of the city, or a short walk outside of it. The beach is walkable from just about anywhere in town, so unless you like to pack a bunch of stuff with you, you’ll be fine to head over on foot. Some visitors can be seen cruising around on golf carts, since they’re easy to stash on side streets, but we’ve found these to be a bit pricey and prefer the exercise.
Restaurants and shopping:
There are good deals to be found on food and souvenirs, but like most places you have to be ready to look at little off the path. The shops right by the beach offer lots of swimsuits and clothing, but at tourist prices. Some of the best deals on blankets, hammocks, jewelry and so forth can be found right on the beach. Sellers walk the beach all day offering all sorts of wares, and they’re all ready to ask you what price you want to pay.
Some of the best food can be found right on the street, at the taco stands! The churros (fried dough) are also delicious, and the perfect post-dinner snack for your walk back to your hotel. If you’re more in the mood for a sit-down meal, there are plenty of great restaurants serving delicious seafood, pizzas, salads and of course, traditional Mexican cuisine. Prices are reasonable, and the service is almost always great.
After dinner, take a lap around the square. There are musicians, skateboarders, fire twirlers and all sorts of performers ready to wow the crowds. The vibe of the city between 9p-11p is fun and vibrant, and there are still tons of families with young ones milling about. I can’t speak to the late night crowd, but at least until 11 or so the majority of the city is just having an innocent good time.
Surfing:
If you go to Sayulita, you can rent a board for a day for about $15 USD. There’s a surf break right there on the main beach, and there are plenty of beginners paddling out on their foam boards for the thrill of their first white water rides, and more experienced surfers showing off their skills a little farther out. You can rent boards right on the beach, or at any of the surf shops in town.
If you’re an avid surfer and want more variety, there are a number of nearby breaks that the locals will help you get to, but keep in mind the best spots you may need to find yourself. Not every surf instructor wants to find tourists on his break on his only day off. But in all, folks are very friendly and if you’re looking for a wave someone will tell you what’s working that day.
Yoga:
Sayulita is a great place to practice your beach flow. I’ve enjoyed several morning sessions flowing to the sound of the waves. Because folks tend to have dinner late and then stay out late, the beach is quiet in the mornings. Surfers and yogis who want a little quiet time would do well to hit the beach before 8:00am. If you prefer to flow with a group, there are also several yoga studios on the side streets of town, and they’ll have morning and evening classes. It’s also a great place for yoga retreats, so keep an eye out for those ads and you can return to flow for an entire weekend. The instructors I’ve had have all spoken English and usually conduct their classes in a mix of both English and Spanish. For single classes, expect to pay a drop in rate of about $10 USD.
Other Activities:
Of course there other activities to explore, if you are not surf/yoga inclined. Sayulita offers horseback riding, zip lining, fishing, ATV tours and much more. You can make reservations in advance, or talk to your hotel clerk and other people in town to see what’s available. People are very friendly and eager to help you enjoy their city.
Safety:
I’ve always felt safe in Sayulita. But of course, whenever you travel you don’t want to leave common sense behind. Stay in groups when you can, but if you explore alone, stick to the main drag. Evenings are joyful, but as the night goes on, some folks transition from eating to drinking, and it can get a little loud. This is usually when we call it a night! If you do like to stay out late and enjoy adult beverages, just keep an eye on your drink and your friends. Look out for each other just like you would in your home city, and you’ll be just fine.
The fact that Sayulita is gaining in popularity is no accident. It’s a fun town that combines a beautiful beach with a vibrant cultural experience, while its reasonable prices and English-speaking residents make it accessible to all kinds of travelers. It offers adventure for the daring, and relaxation for the weary. For first-timers, it’s the perfect weekend getaway. After that, it will never be long enough.
